Almost Thailand

Travel DayAndaman Day 1: Friday August 12th

I left my home in Shantimalai today to embark on a three-week whirlwind trip through India and Nepal with my friend James. Hailing from New Jersey, James is one of my oldest friends. Ever since he saw me frolicking naked in his meadow in Switzerland at the tender age of three, and I laid eyes on that glorious mushroom haircut, we knew this was the start of something special. Twenty years later and we're still on speaking terms, which is impressive. For the next few weeks, we will be traveling together--it'll be interesting to see what having a big brother feels like. I'm annoyed already.
James is doing the hippy chic look now, because he knows he can't get away with it in law school

James and I took a taxi at 3 am in order to arrive at the airport in time for our 10 o'clock flight. Indian airport security is a peculiar thing that seems to defy logic.

For example: I was allowed to bring a 2L bottle of water through without so much as a second glance, but I couldn't put my bag on the security belt without the luggage tag I was supposed to be given at check-in (which was never filled out...so they needed a blank luggage tag. Okay...) Then, when I was boarding the plane, they required these tags to have a stamp (that said something completely illegible, to be given at the same security checkpoint that required the tags...the same checkpoint that DIDN'T stamp my tags). Back through the airport I went for the second time. It just makes no sense.

Then the actual boarding of the plane is another feat in itself. They open 2 entrances at the front and rear of the plane, but don't specify who can get on where. This creates the mother of all traffic jams, because instead of sorting this out on the tarmac where there is room for planes to turn around, it now needs to be resolved in the alley between the seats, which is tough for ME to get through, let alone an Indian lady and her entire family. Of course, most Indians don't understand the concept of waiting in line, and will blatantly walk out and around to the front, completely ignorant of the other 200 passengers waiting to board. But they all do this to each other, so it's a backward system that works for them. For us Westerners, it's agonizing to watch. I definitely stuck out a leg a few times to secure my spot in line, and elbowed my fair share of grandmas out of my way, but it's a dog eat dog world: They know just how small and cute they are, and how stupidly polite Canadians are, and sneak in front, plastering an innocent smile on their face, daring you to do something about it. It's more about the principle, and it's infuriating!

The flight's not so bad; the airport in Port Blair is tiny, and is given to the Indian airforce after 3 pm, which explains all the early flights. We were on a tight schedule--our flight was supposed to land at 12:05, and the last ferry to Havelock Island (where we were staying) was at 2 pm, on the other side of Port Blair. After some difficulty in locating the ticket office, we were on the ferry, en route to Havelock. After about two hours of refrigeration in the ship's air-conditioned belly, we made it. We bargained our way to a taxi that would take us to the Emerald Gecko Resort, where we were staying for the next few nights.

The term "Resort" should be used loosely on Havelock Island--make no mistake, this isn't the all-inclusive Caribbean escape you had on Spring Break. A bamboo cabin not more than 20 feet from the ocean was ours for Rs. 625 a night...about 12 dollars total. It came with an open-air bathroom, which included a parade of various creatures making an appearance on the regular--turning the light on before you go in the middle of the night is CRUCIAL. Being a bamboo cabin (allegedly built using rafts that floated ashore from Myanmar, but I remain skeptical about this), it is not exactly air-tight. The bed has a mosquito net surrounding it, which is fun--it really feels like we're camping, tropical style.

Our cabin by the ocean

After a delicious meal of Butter Chicken and paratha from Blackbeard's Bistro, the restaurant at the resort, we were absolutely exhausted and went to bed by 8 pm. Fantastic schedule. I'm practicing for retirement. I guess I'm getting a little ahead of myself..I should probably work on getting a job first. But that's neither here nor there. Day 1 in the books!

3 Countries, 2 Continents, 1 Travel Day

Think about it. Istanbul is straddling Europe and Asia. I'm flying to Dubai, in the Middle East. Then India. Busy day for me! Waiting to board my flight to Dubai. Hungover, tired, and stressed. Trying to leave it behind.

The plane is massive, and full of people that clearly do not know how to travel. Relax, they're not going to leave without you, and it's not a big deal whether you're the first on board.

No free wifi at the airport sucks-I'm finding it's really hit and miss and totally depends on the country. Also unaccounted for is the difficulty in finding a free socket I can charge my electronics with. At the hostel, you're barely in your room except to sleep, so I don't want to leave stuff like that out while I'm not there-it's too tempting. While I'm sleeping its the same problem-I'm afraid ill wake up to an empty charger.

So basically if i want things charged, I have to sit in my room and wait. Naturally, I'm about to board a 10 HR flight with a dead iPod and an iPad at 14%.

The flight is delayed about a half hour, which isn't too bad; I have a 2 HR layover in Dubai, so it should be fine.

I get on the plane and find my seat, which is at the very front of a section so there's no one in front of me and I have a ton of leg room. Score! As I'm unpacking and getting settled, a steward comes and asks if I would mind changing seats so a family can use the space for a basinette. Well, I would mind, but I'm not that much of a jerk so I agreed. I got a window seat and an empty one next to me, and they gave me the food being served in business class. I sipped free champagne all flight, so it worked out alright. oh, and they had a charging station in the stewards' bay, so they charged my iPad for me while i was on the flight.

We land about an hour and a half behind schedule and now I'm getting antsy. I don't know what the pilot was doing, but I did not purchase a ticket with a scenic night tour of Dubai.

We land and taxi into the plane's parking space, which is obviously the furthest point from the terminal I need to be in. There are shuttles waiting, and these took us on another half hour drive to get to the terminal. Now it's getting close.

I walk in expecting to be filtered into a separate direction for connecting flights, but everyone is being told to go the same way. I take the escalator up to see the longest line of security I have witnessed on this trip so far. Easily a two hour wait. I was faced with a moral dilemma: do i wait my turn, like a good Canadian, or do I throw the 'bows up and make something happen? I mean, everyone was in the same boat as I...

Elbows were up and I crosschecked my way through many disgruntled passengers to let security know i was going to miss my flight if I wasn't bumped to the front of the line...usually they do this for you in Europe or north America if you're catching a connecting flight, but either way I thought once I brought this to their attention I'd be sent straight through.

That would be a false assumption. He just pointed to the line and said "what do you expect me to do? They're also all waiting." that was the last straw for me-I pushed past him, threw my bag on the security belt, scooted through the scanner, and was on my way. No one stopped me, which proves the whole thing was just a disorganized disaster. Not cool, Emirates. Not cool. You WILL be hearing from me, and i do expect something to be done about this. Not the service I paid for.

I put my head down and literally sprinted to the gate for my connecting flight, which was on final call and at the very end of the terminal.

Much smaller plane, middle seat, surrounded by 3 huge Indian guys. Doesn't look like I'm getting much sleep tonight. Note to self: stop booking night flights! They make travel so much harder and tiring! Unless I were flying business class, in which case, note to future rich self: fly all night!

I really wish I had been on a direct flight from Istanbul to Chennai. This whole transfer business makes it so much tougher. Also difficult and not pictured: taking money out before I get to India. Let's hope they have ATMs by now...I remember there was a point in which they didn't have computers in their banks, and everything was kept by hand ledger.

I slept for most of the taxi ride, although we had to stop for a bathroom break at some point. The cab pulls over to this roadside stand with refreshments and says it's in there. In where? This is a shack! Yeah...We walked behind, through a metal workshop, into the sketchiest room I have ever been in in my life. Straight out of Hostel or the Saw franchise. Corrugated metal on all sides, no light, flies buzzing above the hole in the ground that was to be the toilet. GREAT. What choice did I have? Thank god I bought that roll of Charmin To Go in Shoppers before I left on my trip.

TMI? That's India for ya.

Corfooooood

Corfu Day 2 - July 5 That damn bus almost killed me. Well, the walk to the bus almost killed me. "Yeah it's just up the road a bit, leave about 20 minutes before and you'll be fine," said the bartender. I thought that's not too bad, a nice stroll will be great, I can take some pictures, just gravy.

NOT THE CASE.

I literally scaled a MOUNTAIN for 30 minutes, in 35 degree heat, in flip flops. Never again. I'm dreading going down when the bus drops me off...

I run about 8k most days, and I was struggling after about 30 seconds of this crap. Screw the view, tomorrow I am renting a scooter. Now I know why everyone in Corfu has amazing beach bodies.

I walked to the Old Port when I got here, and found a cafe so I could try some traditional greek food--this is one of the cuisines I've been most excited to try! Tons of tavernas along the shore, but I found one with a particularly spectacular view, and was family-run so I'm hoping it's not TOO touristy. I like trying to find traditional restaurants in which to try traditional food...versus the Pizza Hut I passed on the boardwalk. I had greek salad, which was light and fresh, with huge pieces of feta, and souvlaki--I'm very satisfied. It's so nice to just sit by yourself sometimes and admire what's in front of you (in my case, this ridiculous view). Still on the greek food list to try while I'm here: Gyro, Moussaka, and Calamari.

I have to try and navigate my way back to the bus stop (remember how that went for me in Berlin?), and then I'll probably hit the beach for a few hours before dinner.

There's a nude beach that has special mud that's supposed to be amazingly good for your skin, but I'm not sure I'm going to be that adventurous...YET. I still have 2 days here so you never know.

My Real Greek Salad

Souvlaki

Unidentified sweet treat I was brought after my meal...baclava? Part of Corfu's Old Town

Cor-fun In The Sun

corfu from the plane Corfu Day 1 - July 4

Happy Independence Day! In other pointless exclamations, Corfu. is. beautiful. I had a window seat on the plane, and I just stared out the window the entire time because I couldn't believe I was actually going there (side note: the coast of Albania is amazing, highly recommend checking that out on a future trip).

I touched down to sun and beautiful scenery, and am so glad I picked this over Romania! I was thinking of continuing east because that's the easiest way for me to get to Istanbul, but I just realized, this is my trip, I can do whatever I want, and I want to go to places that I'm excited about, not just going for the sake of going.

The hostel I booked offers free pick ups from the airport, which I gladly accepted -- even though I had to wait an hour for her to show up. I'm glad I waited though, as taxis to the hostel are about 50 Euros. Welcome back to "Western Europe", Katy.

The hostel is family owned and run, like the last one, but it's pretty remote, so it operates almost more like a resort--breakfast and dinner are included, and there's a bar in there too. It's kind of weird though, because this is also where the family lives, so you'll be at the bar and then turn around and one of her kids is watching tv in the living room.

The room is very small, although coming from our last hostel (18 foot ceilings) I guess I'm kind of spoiled. Reality check. It's also kind of sketchy security-wise...there's an old key to my room, that I share with one other person, and that's it. No locker or anything. So I've been carrying all my valuables around with me because I don't trust it in the room.

The location is definitely why people go here. The views are just breathtaking, and there's a patio that you can sit in with unobstructed views of the Ionian Sea in every direction. It's so beautiful it's surreal.

I quickly changed and headed down to the beach where all these lounge chairs were scattered. I found an empty one and laid out, basking in the Greek sun and feeling like a million bucks until I hear a voice. "You pay?" I'm thinking what is this? "You pay," he repeated. Ummmm no? "Then you leave." Apparently the chairs cost money, something my hostel neglected to mention! Screw that, I packed up and took it as a sign that I shouldn't be baking myself any longer.

Tonight, I just hung out at the bar and chatted with the staff a bit--there's not too many people staying here, so tables were eventually pulled together and I met a couple from England and 2 people traveling together from Perth, Australia. They were really great, but they left the next morning :(

At about 3 am, we decided to run down to the beach and go for a late night dip in the Sea. It was one of the best moments of my trip. All you can see is the water, and this massive canopy of stars everywhere you look, because there was no moon. I just remember opening my arms, looking up, and thinking, 'Life is amazing.' I really hope everyone experiences a moment like that at some point..it's hard to describe but you'll know when it happens.

After about 10 seconds we realized how cold we were and ran up to the hotel on the beach and crashed their pool so we could warm up...sorry if you were staying there. But you're not using the pool at 3 am anyway.

Tomorrow I'm going to take the bus into town (about 30 min) and explore a bit--I want to go horseback riding, parasailing, and rent a quad to see the rest of the island at some point, so today is my time for relaxation.

Depressing (Buda)Pest

Walking with Mr. Reagan in Pest Budapest Day 3 - July 3

This morning, we woke up in time for a 10:30 am walking tour of Pest, the other city that makes up Budapest (on the other side of the Danube). It is 3 times bigger than Buda. Our guide was very knowledgeable about the town, as her family has lived here her whole life. She explained a lot about the city's history, and it basically sounded like Budapest has had the short end of the stick for most of its history. Occupied by the Ottoman Empire, by the Austrian Hapsburgs, then the Nazis, then communism...they've only been a republic since 1989, so this is a fairly new stage, which probably explains some of the massive hyperinflation I mentioned earlier. Hungary is part of the EU, but I don't think they'll be allowed to switch to the Euro until they can pay off some of the 22billion they owe the IMF...Greece part 2, no thanks.

It was definitely not as exciting, visually, as the tour of Buda--but there's just not as much to see on the other side. Lots of communist monuments and buildings you can see bullet holes.

I think that's why I'm not a huge fan of the city--it's pretty, but instead of walking the streets and thinking about how beautiful life in the city must've been at the time these buildings were built (like I did in Vienna), I just think about all the terrible things this city has seen. Kind of depressing!

It's also caught me off guard how poor people are here. I expect it in some place like India or southeast Asia, but this is Europe! Our guide said the average salary is 150,000 Forints. A YEAR. That's less than 800 dollars. Shocking.

On the bright side, this means that Hungary is dirt cheap. We bought tall cans of beer for 89 Forints...which is about 75 cents Canadian.

Tonight, we went to a place recommended by our guide to try traditional Hungarian food, called Castro Bistro. We tried to order the layered potato dish she said we should try, but they were out! So instead, I had Hungarian pasta (which basically was pierogies with bacon, sour cream, and onions, except with pasta) and goulash. Hungarian food is HEAVY. We definitely had some serious food comas to deal with after that meal.

Tomorrow, I'm hopping a flight to the northernmost island in Greece, Corfu. Our hostel owner said he'd drive me to the airport which is awesome, because apparently I would otherwise be navigating 2 subways, a tram, a bus, and a km walk. Can't wait for some sun! Hungary has been way too cold for me in July.

My Hungarian feast!